Is your arrival to Vietnam imminent? Do you want to stimulate your taste buds with its local fare? Well, there it goes—explosions in flavor await you in this gastronomical meadow.
It proves to be a very appealing dish for the locals to consume, but to an outsider, it just smells quite strong; you must try this hidden local dish at least once in a lifetime while you're in Vietnam: Bun dau mam tom (noodles and tofu with shrimp paste). Read along to find out the recipe for Bun dau mam tom, as well as the best places to enjoy it in this article.
Bun dau mam tom is a traditional Vietnamese dish made with bun (rice vermicelli), dau (crispy fried tofu), and mam tom (fermented shrimp paste). Originally from Hanoi, it has become a popular specialty in northern Vietnam. The dish is often served with boiled pork, pork patties (cha com), or crunchy pork skin rolls. The tofu is fried until golden and crispy on the outside while remaining soft on the inside. The shrimp paste is usually mixed with lime, chili, and sugar to balance its strong flavor and aroma.
While many restaurants now serve bun dau mam tom, its origins are closely tied to the image of street vendors in Hanoi. In the past, a woman would carry two bamboo baskets suspended on a shoulder pole. One basket held a small stove and frying pan for cooking tofu on the spot, along with fresh herbs, noodles, and shrimp paste. The other carried utensils and small stools for her customers. Whenever someone called out for food, she would stop, quickly set up her mobile eatery, and serve people right on the sidewalk. This humble and familiar scene remains a vivid part of the dish’s identity, bringing not just flavor but a taste of tradition.
It is not very difficult to prepare and make the Bun Dau Mam tom. Bun dau mam tom consists of many "fresh" ingredients; if you were to follow down to the end of the list, you have either a heart of iron or a very adventurous soul, as this combination is more than just "stinky sauce" mam tom. There are things that offer quite a surprise to perfect the whole adventurous gastronomical experience. Let us go through this in detail on what comprises a full combo of bun dau mam tom.
The fried tofu in the bun dau mam tom combo unexpectedly steals the spotlight. Tofu is often seen as a bland and unremarkable ingredient, but here it becomes something truly irresistible. It boasts a perfectly crisp exterior and a soft, fragrant interior that melts in your mouth. Just one bite unleashes a creamy burst of soy flavor that delivers an almost addictive sense of satisfaction.
The ham is boiled with consummate skill, scantly chewy from the skin, yielding tender flesh.
Rice noodles, or bun, are the base of the dish; soft, cool, and lightly chewy in texture.
The heart of the dish, and also its most controversial element, is mam tom. This bold shrimp paste is made by salting baby shrimp and letting them ferment for several weeks until it thickens into a purplish, pungent paste. At first glance, it is far from inviting.
Bun dau mam tom is one of those dishes that locals can enjoy at any time of the day, whether it’s breakfast, lunch, or dinner. What truly defines it, however, is the fermented shrimp paste (mam tom), which must be customized carefully before eating.
To prepare your dipping sauce like a local, start by adding 1–2 kumquats (or a bit of lemon juice), a teaspoon of sugar, and some chili slices to the shrimp paste. Mix gently and adjust the flavor as you go, tasting until it suits your palate. Stir well until the surface forms a light foamy layer, which is a good sign it’s ready..
Once the sauce is set, take your chopsticks, grab a piece of noodle or tofu, and dip it lightly into the shrimp paste. Combine with herbs and pork slices if available. The key is to explore slowly. Tofu and noodles are usually the easiest to start with, while the stronger components like cha com or pork skin are best saved for when you're ready.
Traditionally, locals enjoy bun dau mam tom with iced kumquat tea or apricot syrup drinks. These help cleanse the palate and balance the bold flavors of the shrimp paste. If you're not used to fermented food, you might also want to have some gum or green tea after the meal to refresh your breath
You can find this dish both in Hanoi. We suggest some places where you can go to eat it.
Bun Dau Restaurant has long existed in the Hoan Kiem district of Hanoi. The restaurant's dish is made with the finest carefully selected ingredients: imported prawn pasta from Thanh Hoa, the famous tofu from Mo village, and fine noodles.
Address: 49, Phat Loc Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi
Hours: 7:00 am - 9:00 pm
The Bun Dau Mam tom dish of this place is characterized by using a tray that is filled with crispy fried tofu, aromatic and fatty sausages, noodles in small portions that adapt to the mouth, boiled pork is cut into thin and soft slices, and finally the cha com with very little oil.
The prawn pasta here is also quite good and satisfying, served with crispy andouillettes, the sweet and fragrant cha com... Overall, it's pretty good. Despite the large number of customers received, the service is fast.
Address: 31, Lane 29, Hang Khay Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi
Hours: 9:00 a.m. - 9:30 p.m.
Price: 30,000 - 50,000 VND
Although it is located on the sidewalk, the space of this restaurant is well organized and very clean. The owner is always cheerful. A serving of bun dau mam tom includes: fresh noodles, hot tofus, cha com, spring rolls, pork... as well as prawn pasta to your liking.
Address: 4, Ngo Gach Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi
Opening hours: 10:00 - 21:00
Price: 25,000 - 50,000 VND
Bun Dau Mam Tom is served here on a platter, which is an indispensable item in Vietnamese main dishes. Especially, the place to eat is very close to Hanoi's Old Quarter and Tong Duy Tan's food street. You can try other tasty Vietnamese foods. One downside to coming here is that at noon, you'll have to wait a bit to get a seat and be served.
Address: 1B, Ngo Tram Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi
Hours: 7:30 - 15:00
She has been famous since she was in Dong Thai Lane, now she has moved to an address in Ma May, but her fame has not diminished. Although the price of a serving of the Bun Dau Mam tom there is not cheap like the others, it is undeniable about its deliciousness and its quality. Among the side dishes, cha com and boiled meat are two dishes that are rated best by many people. One note is that it's very crowded at noon, so you should arrive early.
Address: 5, Ma May Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi
Opening hours: 7:00 - 18:00
The Bun Dau Mam tom in Ma May is very famous in Hanoi
Whenever we talk about Vietnamese food, it invariably brings into perspective the Pho, Bun Bo Hue, and the list goes on. On the next trip to Vietnam, one dish that you must savor is, to many international tourists, the 'Bun Dau Mam Tom'; this dish actually comes from Hanoi. The smell of shrimp paste is initially an unpleasant experience, and one could even shy away from tasting it. But what you may have thought was unpleasant is actually very delicious after getting past this bad reputation and may end up being one of your favorite dishes. There is also Kampa Tour to book fitting travel if you are too busy to manage your traveling schedule to experience this cuisine and culture and get to know Vietnam better.
Learn more about Vietnamese cuisine:
Image source: internet
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