Dong Van Is the Most Insane Stop on the Ha Giang Loop

Ha Giang loop is always an attractive target for motorbike enthusiasts, with countless unique features from the scenery, culture, and lifestyle of the people. On that route is Dong Van, the place that can be considered the most valuable on this route. So what really makes it worth the money and effort spent on this journey? This article will summarize the main points as best as possible!

Written by Oliver PHUNG (Tour guide)

Updated on May 20, 2025

0 comment

Table of contents

1. Where Is Dong Van on the Ha Giang Loop?
2. Why Does Dong Van Gate Street Mean So Much to Me?
3. What to do and see?
3.1 Stroll Around the Old Town at Night
3.2 King Meo Palace (Vuong Family Palace)
3.3 Ma Pi Leng Pass
3.4 Cruise the Nho Que River & Explore Tu San Canyon
3.5 Lung Cu Flag Tower
3.6 Walk Through Buckwheat Flower Fields in Sủng Là
4. Where to Soak Up the Vibe and Local Life in Dong Van?
4.1 Dong Van market
4.2 Visiting Ethnic Minority Villages
5. The best time to go
Conclusion

1. Where Is Dong Van on the Ha Giang Loop?

Dong Van sits on the Dong Van Karst Plateau in Ha Giang Province, northern Vietnam, about 130–150 km northeast of Ha Giang City. This small town is a standout stop on the Ha Giang Loop, a renowned motorbike route weaving through rugged mountains and vibrant ethnic communities like the H’Mong, Tay, and Lo Lo.

A 4–5-hour ride over passes like Bac Sum and Can Ty carries you from the city’s bustle to a striking landscape of limestone peaks, misty valleys, and cool air. In Dong Van, ancient stone streets and a tranquil pace create a sense of stepping into a different world.

2. Why Does Dong Van Gate Street Mean So Much to Me?

If someone asks if Dong Van Old Quarter is worth visiting, I’d say: Absolutely, but visit after exploring highlights like the Dong Van Karst Plateau or Ma Pi Leng Pass, and make sure you have time to soak in its charm.

For me, this narrow street lined with weathered stone houses, glowing red lanterns, and the lively chatter of H’Mong vendors at the night market is a peaceful retreat after a long ride on the Ha Giang Loop. Sipping a hot bowl of thang co (a local H’Mong stew) in the chilly air, I feel the heart of Ha Giang’s culture and relaxed vibe. Spend at least one night to experience the bustling Old Quarter, but if time is tight, prioritize other attractions first.

3. What to do and see?

3.1 Stroll Around the Old Town at Night

If you ask me what to do in Dong Van, I’d say: stroll through the Old Quarter at night. That’s when Ha Giang’s essence shines, with historic stone houses and glowing red lanterns weaving a timeless story.

Features: Dong Van Old Quarter, a 300-meter stretch, boasts over 40 stone houses from the 19th-20th centuries, reflecting the rich heritage of H’Mong, Tay, and Lo Lo cultures.
Activities: I love wandering under the lanterns, grabbing a steaming bowl of thang co (H’Mong stew) from street vendors, or relaxing at a cozy café with hot tea, soaking in the lively night market. In addition, Dong Van also has pubs decorated in an ancient style with stilt houses and rammed earth walls, to serve foreign tourists who like to party.

3.2 King Meo Palace (Vuong Family Palace)

Among Dong Van’s attractions, King Meo Palace stands out as a must-visit. Stepping into this place feels like traveling back to the last century, where the legacy of power and Hmong culture remains vibrant.

Features: Vuong Family Palace, located in Sa Phin Valley, is a unique architectural gem from 1919, blending Hmong, Vietnamese, and Chinese styles. It once served as the residence of the influential Vuong family.
Activities: Explore the rooms, admire intricately carved stone pillars, and learn about Vuong Chi Sinh and the history of this UNESCO-recognized karst region from a guided tour. Capture photos in the communal house yard with stunning mountain backdrops.

Tips:

Hire a descendant of the Vuong family, still residing there, as a guide to gain deeper insight into the historical narrative.
Price: 20k VND (about $0.80) for entrance fee.
Dong Van is famous for Buckwheat cake and beer, really worth a try!

3.3 Ma Pi Leng Pass

Ma Pi Leng Pass, a legendary route on the Ha Giang Loop, showcases breathtaking mountain vistas and the vibrant emerald Nho Que River, creating an unforgettable scenic experience.

Features: Ma Pi Leng Pass, stretching 20 miles, is one of Vietnam’s “four great mountain passes,” linking Dong Van to Meo Vac with dramatic cliffs and deep valleys.
Activities: Pause at lookout points for panoramic valley photos or try light trekking on nearby trails for a closer view of the Nho Que River.

Tips:

Check motorbike brakes and fuel; stations are scarce.
Visit 6–9 AM for clear views before fog sets in.
Try the “Sky Path” trail for a quieter vantage point.
Hire an Easy Rider guide for safe navigation.

Along the Ma Pi Leng Pass, you’ll find a few roadside cafés, and one of the most striking is Panorama Ha Giang. It offers a sweeping view over the Tu San Canyon and the emerald waters of the Nho Que River. It’s a great spot to take a break, grab a bite and soak in the scenery (entry fee: 50,000 VND, around $2; food ranges from 50,000 to 100,000 VND, or $2 to $4).

3.4 Cruise the Nho Que River & Explore Tu San Canyon

On the Ma Pi Leng Pass, pause to visit the Nho Que River and Tu San Canyon, a natural masterpiece on the Ha Giang Loop. The emerald green river winds through towering cliffs, offering stunning yet serene views.

Features: The Nho Que River flows through Tu San Canyon, Southeast Asia’s deepest gorge, near Ma Pi Leng Pass, with cliffs rising hundreds of feet and vibrant turquoise waters.
Activities: Take a boat tour on the Nho Que River for breathtaking views of Tu San Canyon, snap photos from unique angles, or enjoy light trekking along the river to soak in its wild beauty.

*I feel lost when I am at Nho Que river.*

Tips:

Book a boat ticket in advance at the Meo Vac dock to skip long waits.
Wear non-slip shoes and a hat; the path to the dock can be slippery and sunny.
Visit in the (September–November) for clear waters and mild weather.
Check with local guides for small-group tours to avoid crowds.
Bring sunscreen and water; there’s little shade at the dock.

3.5 Lung Cu Flag Tower

Lung Cu Flag Tower, at Vietnam’s northernmost point, stands as a symbol of patriotism, with its red flag and yellow star waving proudly amid the stunning plateau.

Features: Perched atop Lung Cu (Dragon Mountain) in Lung Cu Commune, Dong Van District, Ha Giang, at 4,823 feet above sea level, the 108-foot flagpole flies a 581-square-foot flag, representing Vietnam’s 54 ethnic groups.
Activities: Climb 839 steps to the flagpole’s base for sweeping views of this heritage-rich region, from Then Ven Valley to the Nho Que River. Visit Lo Lo Chai Village nearby to explore Lo Lo culture, or savor a bowl of hearty au tau porridge (a local mung bean dish) at local eateries.

Tips:

Purchase an entry ticket ($1/adult), and consider the tram ($0.60/trip) to skip the stairs.
Visit during the dry season (October to April) for clear views and mild weather (Vietnam Coracle).
Wear sturdy shoes for the climb and a jacket for chilly summit winds.
Do not fly drones above the flagpole. This area is opposite the Chinese border, and both armies may use drone-defense systems at any time.

3.6 Walk Through Buckwheat Flower Fields in Sủng Là

Sủng Là, in Dong Van District, Ha Giang, is renowned for its vibrant buckwheat flower fields, a highlight of the Ha Giang Loop, transforming the rocky plateau into a colorful canvas from late September to early December.

Features: Nestled in Sủng Là Valley, 15 miles from Dong Van, the buckwheat fields bloom from October to November, shifting from white to pink and red, set against the UNESCO-recognized Dong Van Karst Plateau.
Activities: Wander through the flower fields for stunning mountain photos, visit Lung Cam Cultural Village to explore H’Mong traditions at Pao’s House, featured in the Vietnamese film Story of Pao. Attend the mid-November Buckwheat Flower Festival for local culture and cuisine.

*Buckwheat flower hills are fragrant and sweet*

Tips:

Visit mid-October to early November for peak blooms.
Wear sturdy shoes for uneven terrain and bring a camera for golden morning or late afternoon light.
Respect locals by asking permission before photographing people or homes.
Pack water and snacks; facilities are limited in Sủng Là.

4. Where to Soak Up the Vibe and Local Life in Dong Van?

4.1 Dong Van market

To experience the vibrant highland culture, Dong Van Market is a must-visit. Nestled in the heart of Dong Van Old Quarter, Ha Giang, this market is a lively tapestry where H’Mong, Tay, and Lo Lo communities converge, showcasing colorful brocade and mountain flavors.

Every Sunday morning, stalls brim with hand-embroidered scarves, golden honey, and warm corn wine, filling the air with herbal aromas. Visitors can wander through, savor a bowl of rich thang co (H’Mong stew) by a crackling fire, or try hearty au tau porridge (a mung bean dish).

I took the opportunity to take a photo of a normal morning of the local people here — I took the opportunity to take a photo of a
normal morning of the local people here

On Saturday nights, the market glows with the rhythmic Khen dance and soulful Then singing, echoing the spirit of the Karst Plateau. The blend of laughter, friendly faces, and vibrant local traditions creates lasting memories.

4.2 Visiting Ethnic Minority Villages

Nestled in the craggy hills of Dong Van District, Ha Giang, the villages of Lo Lo Chai, Pho La, and Lung Tam burst with the lively traditions of H’Mong, Lo Lo, and Tay communities. Their mud-walled homes blend into the dramatic highland terrain, offering a real taste of highland life.

In Lo Lo Chai, try your hand at weaving colorful H’Mong brocade with local artisans.
In Pho La, cook banh cuon, a thin and savory rice noodle roll, with a family, picking up tricks of mountain cooking.
Lung Tam, a hub for linen weaving, lets you learn old-school techniques.

Spend a night at a Du Gia homestay, sharing a hearty Tay meal and swapping stories about their way of life. The hum of looms and the smoky scent of wood fires make for a cozy, memorable experience.

5. The best time to go

The best time to explore Dong Van is the dry season, from Oct to April, when cool, sunny days make hiking the Dong Van Karst Plateau a breeze. These months offer clear skies and little rain, ideal for soaking in the rugged landscapes.

For those chasing the lush green rice fields that turn golden, June to September is peak season. Be sure to book lodging and transport early, as spots fill fast.

I went during the rainy season so I had to go slowly because there were many muddy roads that were difficult to navigate. — I went during the rainy season so
I had to go slowly because there were many muddy roads that were difficult to navigate

Conclusion

Wrap up your Ha Giang Loop adventure in Dong Van, a must-visit stop packed with vibrant markets and epic views. For a safe motorbike trip, rent a manual or clutch bike in Ha Giang City (around $10 to $15 per day) to handle the steep, winding roads. It's best to avoid scooters for safety reasons. Fill up at gas stations whenever you see one, as they can be few and far between.

If you don’t have an International Driving Permit (IDP), ask your homestay or hotel to arrange a local driver. They are usually happy to help. Dong Van’s wild landscapes, ethnic cultures, and highlights like the Sunday Market or Ma Pi Leng Pass make it a rewarding destination for travelers seeking both adventure and authentic connections.