Hmong in Vietnam: Stories from the Northern Highlands
Northern Vietnam still retains its ancient cultural features and breathtaking landscapes, a must-see destination for any Western tourist. Travellers venturing deep into this mountainous culture in the northern region will spontaneously and sincerely interact with the Hmong ethnic group in Vietnam, whose history has long been tied to these very mountains, leaving any visitor with memories of a lifetime.
Written by Oliver PHUNG (Tour guide)
Updated on Oct 03, 2025
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Oliver Phung is a specialist in cultural tourism and trekking in the mountains of Northern Vietnam, with over 7 years of hands-on experience. Born and raised amidst the sounds of the kèn (a traditional instrument) and the songs of the Mông, Thái, Tay, and Dao ethnic communities, Oliver does not just have a passion for their history and culture, he lives it. For him, sharing the beauty of these traditions is not just a job, it's a way of life.
Drawing from his experience on hundreds of trekking trips and guided tours across routes from Ha Giang, Lao Cai to Cao Bang, Oliver offers an authentic and in-depth perspective.
The Hmong in Vietnam trace their ancestry back to southern China. Chinese chronicles describe them as part of the ancient San Miao nation, with origins even predating the Han Dynasty (206 BC–220 AD). Once living in the Yellow River basin, the Hmong gradually migrated south over centuries, blending with local populations around Dongting Lake, Hunan, Sichuan, Guizhou, Yunnan, Guangdong, and Guangxi.
The Hmong people originated from China
Large migration waves in the 18th and 19th centuries finally brought the Hmong into the highlands of northern Vietnam, where they are now one of the country’s most significant ethnic minority groups. Within Vietnam, they are divided into five main subgroups:
Black Hmong in Sapa (Mông Đơ)
Flower Hmong in Bac Ha (Mông Đu)
White Hmong in Ha Giang (Mông Lềnh)
Red Hmong (Mông Si)
Green or Blue Hmong (Mông Sua)
Each group preserves distinct clothing styles and cultural traditions, together forming the vibrant mosaic of Hmong Vietnam today
A Black Hmong village in Sapa
📚 Good to know:If you have explored destinations rich in Asian culture, such as China, Laos, and others, you may unexpectedly encounter ethnic minorities dressed in colorful clothing and sharing similar traditions. Since the Hmong ethnic group is spread across several Asian countries, travelers might come across them randomly during their journeys.
Language & Writing
The Hmong language in Vietnam belongs to the Hmong–Mien family and is still actively spoken in daily life across northern highland villages. For centuries, the Hmong relied on oral traditions and did not use a unified writing system. In Chinese records, they were historically labeled as 苗 (Miáo), meaning “sprout,” though today most communities prefer the name Hmong (or H’Mông in Vietnamese) as their own self-designation.
A turning point came in the 1950s, when missionaries introduced the Romanized Popular Alphabet (RPA), which is now widely used by Hmong communities both in Vietnam and abroad. Another script, Pahawh Hmong, was created in Laos in the 20th century, but it never became common in Vietnam. Nowadays, most Hmong in Vietnam are bilingual, using both their mother tongue and Vietnamese, with the RPA as the main Hmong writing system. This vitality makes the Hmong language a cornerstone of Hmong culture in Vietnam.
Flower Script for the Hmong Today by Ian James
Population & Distribution
According to the Ministry of Ethnic Affairs and Religions of Vietnam in the 2019 Census, the Hmong population numbers about 1.39 million people, making up roughly 1.45% of the country’s total population. They are one of the largest ethnic minority groups in the northern mountains, with communities concentrated mainly in Lao Cai, Ha Giang, Cao Bang, Son La, and Dien Bien provinces. These highland areas provide the steep valleys and terraced fields that have long supported Hmong agriculture and village life.
Beyond Vietnam, significant Hmong communities can also be found overseas, especially in the United States, France, and Australia, where many families resettled in the late 20th century. Together, these global and local communities reflect the resilience and adaptability of the Hmong people while maintaining strong cultural ties to their homeland.
📚 Worth Knowing: According to data from the 2019 Population Census, the Mong ethnic group in Vietnam consists of 1,393,547 people, accounting for 1.45% of the country's population and ranking fifth in population size among 54 ethnic groups. Additionally, more than 170,000 live in the United States, with nearly 20,000 spread across France (15,000), Australia (2,000), French Guiana (1,500), Canada (600), and Argentina (600). You can see the list here!
Hmong Culture & Traditions
Traditional Clothing & Silver Jewelry
Traditional clothing is one of the most striking aspects of Hmong culture in Vietnam. Each subgroup expresses its identity through distinctive textiles and colors.
White Hmong wear plain white flax garments and pleated skirts, symbolizing purity and simplicity.
Black Hmong, found in Sapa, favors indigo-dyed hemp decorated with fine embroidery.
Flower Hmong stand out in Bac Ha with multi-layered skirts and jackets richly embroidered in vivid reds, pinks, and yellows.
Red Hmong add bold red details such as headscarves or embroidered patterns, especially during festivals.
Green or Blue Hmong prefer deep green-blue fabrics with complex geometric designs, reflecting refined textile artistry.
From left to right - From top to bottom
(Hmong Flower - Hmong Black - Hmong Green - Hmong White)
Equally eye-catching is the Hmong’s love of silver jewelry. Heavy necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and belts are not only ornaments but also powerful symbols of wealth, beauty, and protection. Wearing silver is believed to ward off evil spirits while showing family prosperity. During festivals and markets, women often wear their finest silver sets, turning gatherings into dazzling fashion displays.
Girls from 7 years old are allowed to wear jewelry to beautify themselves
Together, the bold costumes and gleaming silver jewelry make the Hmong people visually unforgettable, offering some of the most photogenic cultural scenes in northern Vietnam.
Every woman has silver jewelry on her body
Handicrafts and Indigo Dyeing
The Hmong handicraft like weaving and embroidery on brocade fabric are traditional, age-old crafts for the Hmong. Such arts and chores are closely connected with their daily lives and form an essential aspect of the unique culture of the Hmong. Careful weaving and embroidering of brocade products mark the skill and creativity of Hmong women.
In Lùng Tám (Hà Giang), women carefully follow an ancient cycle of flax weaving: planting, spinning, beeswax painting, and deep indigo dyeing. The indigo bath creates the signature blue, while wax motifs and embroidery add both cultural meaning and everyday use.
The manufacture of linen among the H'mong made it possible to produce unique linen fabrics
In Pa Co (Hòa Bình), Blue Hmong artisans create striking batik textiles, layering indigo backgrounds with intricate appliqué.
Around Lao Chai (Sapa), brocade weaving workshops allow visitors to watch dyeing and embroidery up close. Alongside textiles, Hmong silver jewelry such as necklaces, earrings, and belts remains highly valued, blending beauty with protective symbolism. Each scarf, bag, or piece of jewelry carries tradition into modern life.
Rituals and Festivals (Gau Tao, Hmong New Year)
Gau Tao Festival (first lunar month)
This is one of the most important spring festivals of the Hmong. For three days, families and clans gather on open fields to sing, dance, play the bamboo khene, and enjoy traditional games such as ball tossing and tug-of-war. The main ceremony offers prayers for health, children, and good harvests, followed by lively community celebrations that strengthen social bonds.
Bustling Gau Tao Festival
Hmong New Year (11th–12th lunar months)
The Hmong New Year Festival, known in Hmong as Noj Peb Caug Xyoo Tshiab (literally “Eat Thirty”) is celebrated earlier than the national Tết, marking the end of the harvest season. People dress in new colorful costumes, slaughter pigs, pound sticky rice into cakes, and share corn wine with relatives and neighbors.
Hmong family in Vietnam is preparing for their traditional Tet
The Pooj ritual of ancestor worship is performed in each household, then the community gathers for music, khene dances, and traditional games.
💡 Good to know: One of the important ceremonies is ancestor worship (called "Pooj" among the Hmong), in which the family prepares offerings to pray to the ancestors and ask for their blessing for the peace and well-being of future generations.
During New Year, pounding sticky rice into round banh day cakes symbolizes the sun and the moon, expressing gratitude for the crops. In some villages, a New Harvest Festival is also held to thank the spirits and to reinforce the bonds among villagers.
The Banh Day Shelling Festival
Rituals & Life Cycle: Marriage and Funerals
Marriage
Among the Hmong in Vietnam, marriage often begins with the traditional practice of “bride capture”, which today is mostly symbolic and followed by the families’ consent.
"WIFE CATCHING" A cultural feature of marriage among the Vietnamese Hmong
Weddings are not just about two individuals but represent an alliance between clans. Negotiations involve offerings of rice wine, pigs, and chickens, showing respect to the bride’s family.
During the ceremony, guests gather to share corn wine and pork dishes, while elders recite blessings to ensure harmony and fertility. These customs highlight the strong role of kinship and community in Hmong society.
The bride must hold an umbrella to go from her house to her groom's house during the wedding ceremony
Funerals
Funerals hold profound spiritual meaning, as the Hmong believe the soul must return to the ancestors. A funeral can last several days, with a shaman guiding rituals and musicians playing the khèn (reed pipe) to lead the spirit on its journey.
Family members lead, followed by a drummer, flute player, and a woman with a torch, waving to clear the way for the "dry ghost."
Relatives and neighbors join to support the family, offering food, prayers, and companionship. The ceremonies blend music, chants, and sacrifice, reflecting the belief that death is not an end but a passage back to the ancestral world.
The "dry ghost" procession to the field is quick, followed by a fast return to the homeowner's house for the ghost worship party
💡 Good to know: If someone in the village dies, the shaman will perform a ceremony promising that after 12 days he will perform a dry ghost ceremony to hope that the deceased's soul will be liberated and the bereaved family will not be haunted by ghosts.
Top Destinations to Meet the Hmong in Vietnam
Sapa – Black Hmong Villages
The Black Hmong are the most numerous around Sapa. They are known for indigo-dyed hemp clothing, decorated with batik and embroidery. Trekking through villages such as Cát Cát, Lao Chải, and Tả Van lets you experience homestays, watch Hmong indigo dyeing, and buy colorful brocade textiles. Black Hmong hospitality has made Sapa one of the most famous gateways into Hmong Vietnam culture.
In Bac Ha, the Flower Hmong stand out with their dazzling multi-colored costumes. Every Sunday market is a spectacular gathering, where women in bright skirts and heavy silver jewelry sell handicrafts, horses, and fresh produce. Visiting Bac Ha gives you a vivid picture of Hmong Vietnam’s most colorful subgroup and their lively market culture.
The White Hmong, easily recognized by their white pleated skirts, live across the Dong Van Plateau and Lung Cu Flag Tower area. Traveling the Ha Giang Loop, you’ll encounter their stone houses, attend traditional khèn (reed pipe) performances, or even catch a festival. Ha Giang is the best place to experience the White Hmong’s strong cultural traditions.
In Mu Cang Chai (Yên Bái), the Green (or Blue) Hmong cultivate spectacular rice terraces that glow golden in September and October. Their clothing, with deep indigo tones and geometric embroidery, is less flamboyant than the Flower Hmong but equally striking. Mu Cang Chai is a paradise for photography and trekking while meeting Green Hmong families in the highland villages.
Though smaller in number, the Red Hmong live in scattered villages of Lào Cai province, often alongside other Hmong groups. They are identified by their use of bright red fabric and headscarves, especially during festivals. Visiting a Red Hmong community offers a rare chance to discover a subgroup less mentioned in travel guides, adding depth to your journey through Hmong Vietnam.
Daily Life: Homes, Agriculture, Clan Stories
Traditional Houses
Traditional Hmong houses in Vietnam are often built as nhà trình tường (earthen houses) with thick clay walls and stone-tiled roofs, perfectly suited for the harsh mountain climate. Inside, corn cobs are hung on the kitchen loft, both as food storage and a symbol of prosperity. Walking into a Hmong house, the sight of golden corn rows above the hearth immediately conveys warmth and abundance.
Agriculture
Although Hmong community tourism in Vietnam is increasingly attracting tourists, to say the least, agriculture remains the backbone of Hmong daily life. Families grow rice and corn on terraced fields or upland plots, alongside vegetables, flax for weaving, and medicinal plants. In autumn, harvested corn is stacked neatly in front of homes, while livestock such as pigs, chickens, and buffalo are raised not only for food but also for use in important ceremonies. These practices reflect the close link between farming cycles and Hmong cultural traditions.
Clan & Beliefs
Hmong society is organized into large clans, which guide marriage rules, social ties, and collective rituals. The shaman (thầy cúng) plays a crucial role, mediating between the living and the spirit world. Core Hmong beliefs emphasize harmony with ancestors, often expressed through household altars and offerings of a chicken or pig during family rituals. This spiritual connection reinforces the sense of unity and continuity within the community.
Conclusion
The Hmong ethnicity and culture in Vietnam, with its unique traditions, majestic landscapes, and colorful handicrafts, offer visitors an authentic and memorable experience. Meeting the Hmong community allows travelers to discover a deep harmony between nature and heritage, where every aspect of life reflects centuries-old traditions and a sincere attachment to the mountainous region of Northern Vietnam. At KamPá Tour, we provide “authentic” Northern exploration itineraries, including exploring majestic landscapes, eating, sleeping, and living with the humble locals. Pack your bags and join us today!
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