Hoa Lo Prison – A Witness to Vietnam's Colonial History

What Is the “Hell on Earth” Known as Hoa Lo Prison?

Before it became known as “Hell on Earth” under French rule, Hoa Lo prison was originally part of Phu Khanh village, located in Vinh Xuong commune, Tho Xuong district, of Hanoi.

Prior to the 19th century, this area was home to one of the few well-known craft villages within the Thang Long Citadel (modern-day Hanoi). Artisans here specialized in producing household clay items, such as stoves, pots, and pans. Over time, the village became colloquially known as Hoa Lo, which means “Village of Stoves”.

• French Colonial Era (Maison Centrale)

In 1873 and 1882, the French seized Hanoi, reshaping it into a colonial hub. By 1896, they built Hoa Lo Prison, or Maison Centrale, replacing outdated Nguyen dynasty prisons to suppress anti-colonial movements.

The old Hoa Lo village was erased, making way for a triangle of control: the prison, courthouse, and secret police headquarters. Strategically placed at Hanoi’s heart, the prison symbolized French dominance, a constant reminder of their watchful, punitive power.

• Vietnam War Era (Hanoi Hilton)

After the 1954 Dien Bien Phu victory and Geneva Accords, Vietnam’s revolutionary government took over Hanoi, including Maison Centrale (Hoa Lo prison). 

From 1964 to 1973, it detained American pilots captured during Vietnam War bombings, earning the ironic nickname "Hanoi Hilton". Notable prisoners included Douglas Peterson, later U.S. Ambassador to Vietnam, Senator John McCain, and Vice Admiral James Stockdale, a 1992 U.S. Vice Presidential candidate.

• Hoa Lo Prison Today

Since 1993, Hoa Lo prison has transformed from a grim facility into a historical museum, with only 2,000 square meters preserved as the Hoa Lo Prison Memorial. Recognized as a Hanoi historical relic, it draws visitors to explore its complex past. Despite its museum status, the chilling atmosphere lingers. 

So, is Hoa Lo Museum a must-visit Hanoi tourist attraction? Let’s step inside with me to find out.

What’s Inside Hoa Lo Prison?

• Architectural Overview of the Prison Complex

Built by the French during the colonial period, Hoa Lo Prison covered more than 12,000 square meters and was considered one of the most secure prisons in Indochina. This French colonial prison were divided into four zones:

• Areas A and B: Held minor offenders or inmates who broke prison rules.
• Area C: Housed French prisoners and foreigners.
• Area D: Reserved for key political prisoners, many of whom awaited execution.

The entire complex was enclosed by a 4-meter-high wall, lined with broken glass and electric wires. A 3-meter-wide patrol path ran along the inside, constantly watched from four corner towers.

When I visited, I stood by those thick, gray stone walls and tried to imagine what it must have been like. Every inch was built to control, to contain, to intimidate. The air inside felt stale, unmoving. Light barely crept in through narrow slits near the ceiling. In some cells, rusted shackles still lay anchored to the floor. I imagined then that there were the waste holes, left uncleaned for days, adding to the oppressive stench that seemed to linger, even now.

• Artifacts Representing Oppression and Resistance

One of the most striking aspects of Hoa Lo Prison were the artifacts from the French colonial period, scattered throughout the prison. Walking through the exhibits, I couldn’t help but feel the weight of the prisoners' suffering and their unyielding endurance in such harsh conditions.

• Prison uniforms were poorly made, often too short and made of low-quality fabric. In the bitter winter months, prisoners layered their clothing to fight the cold.
• Eating utensils were prohibited to prevent weapons, so prisoners had to improvise. Ingenious inmates fashioned bowls and spoons from discarded coconut shells and almond branches.
• Torture devices, like boxing gloves, gas cylinders, and electric machines, were used to extract confessions, even from women, with brutal efficiency.

• Historical photos depicted famous Vietnamese revolutionaries, such as Nguyen Van Cu and Truong Chinh, imprisoned here alongside American POWs during the war.
• Maps and documents showcased military strategies, liberation plans, and exchanges between American prisoners and the Vietnamese government after their release.

• The Haunting Prison Cells

What overwhelmed me the most at Hoa Lo Prison were the prisoner rooms. If I had to describe them in three words, I would say: “Suffocating, haunting, and admirable”. 

Suffocating from the sight of shackles and chains scattered across the beds in the cells; haunted by the torture artifacts that had been used on the political prisoners; and finally, admiring the indomitable resilience of the prisoners, who stood tall even when faced with death.

• Collective Cell for Male Political Prisoners

This area, known as Prison E, was used to detain revolutionary activists. The walls are lined with bed panels and leg shackles extending to both sides. To give you a sense of it, dolls of Vietnamese political prisoners were placed here. Initially, there were few prisoners, and the beds were spacious. But as conditions worsened, the area became overcrowded, with just 40 cm of space per prisoner. The shackles were too short, forcing them to lie on top of each other.

Yet, what struck me most was that prisoners turned this filthy place into a site of resistance. They hid political documents in the latrine and under the floorboards, chiseling the walls to conceal them from the guards who regularly searched for contraband. Despite the hardships, revolutionary training flourished here, with brothers studying political theory and sharing ideas to keep the revolution alive.

• Women's Cell Block

The female prison camp, covering 270 m², consisted of four small cells, cells for women with children, collective cells, a bathroom, and a camp yard. At one point, the French colonialists imprisoned up to 300 female prisoners here.

The cells were cramped, and daily necessities like water were scarce. Hygiene was poor, and food rations were often reduced, making life for female political prisoners extremely difficult. The harsh conditions took the lives of many loyal communist soldiers, including Nguyen Thi Quang Thai, the wife of General Vo Nguyen Giap.

• Solitary Confinement (Cachot)

Cachot was used to detain those who were punished for violating prison rules. Cachot in Hoa Lo was the “Hell of Hell”, with cramped, dark cells. Here, prisoners were locked up in isolation, shackled at night, and had to eat, sleep, and defecate on the spot.  After a short time in Cachot, prisoners suffered from edema, blurred vision, and scabies due to the lack of hygiene, light, and oxygen.

For female prisoners, although their feet were not shackled, they were subjected to cruel electric shock torture aimed at their private parts.

• The Guillotine Room and Death Row Cells

Cachot was often called the “hell of hell”. But the death cell area was the most terrifying, because when you were moved into this room, it meant a death sentence for many prisoners. It was cramped, only 2–3 m², with thick 40 cm walls and 3-meter-high ceilings.

Inside this area stood a guillotine, the ultimate punishment. The medieval design featured two 4-meter-high wooden pillars, with the blade held by a pin. Below was a crossbar and a narrow shelf where the condemned would place their head.

• Escape Tunnels Used by Vietnamese Political Prisoners

After visiting the prison areas, you will move to the outer courtyard area for male prisoners, and here you will have the opportunity to learn about the daring prison break of more than 100 political prisoners in August 1945. It wasn’t until 1997, when the importance of preserving and sharing became clear, that the original sewer gate used in the prison break was dismantled and put on display.

Though their bodies were small due to abuse and starvation, their indomitable spirit led to the success of one of the most notorious prison breaks in the world.

• American POW Exhibition Area from the Vietnam War

Continue to the area showcasing artifacts of American prisoners of war from the Vietnam War. The exhibition highlights how the Vietnamese army managed Hoa Lo Prison and protected captured American pilots from bombings by their own forces.

Here, you'll find various items related to the POWs, including parachute suits, packs of cigarettes shared by Vietnamese soldiers, personal items like memoirs and self-drawn paintings by the pilots, and some old films about the lives of American soldiers in the Hanoi Hilton, where they enjoyed Christmas, New Year, and more. These artifacts offer a powerful glimpse into their lives in captivity, shedding light on their daily routines and interactions with their Vietnamese guards.

• Memorial Site for Fallen Revolutionaries

The last area is the memorial, featuring sculptures of emaciated, sickly prisoners whose spirits remained unbroken. Visitors, whether Vietnamese or from abroad, can light an incense stick as a gesture of gratitude and hope for a peaceful future.

An exhibition showcases images and banners that trace Vietnam’s journey from French colonial rule to the Vietnam War, culminating in the reconciliation between former enemies. Among the exhibits are photos of American soldiers returning to Vietnam, visiting the people they once imprisoned, symbolizing the healing of past wounds. This serves as a powerful reminder of war's destructiveness and the possibility that former foes might have become friends in the absence of conflict.

On the second floor, you’ll find stone tablets and images of political prisoners, some of whom became globally recognized, while others remain anonymous, but all are honored for their sacrifice.

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Hoa Lo Night Tour Options

If you're wondering how to spend your day in Hanoi and worry about missing out on things, like visiting Hoa Lo Prison, now you can experience its fascinating history with three exciting night tours offered every Friday and Saturday, giving you a deeper connection with Vietnam's revolutionary past.

These evening tours offer a perfect experience if you're only in Hanoi for a day.

Night Tour 1: The Spirit of Vietnam Shines

• Time: 7:00 PM – 8:30 PM every Friday and Sunday
• Price: 399,000 VND (~$17) for all ages

"Night 1 – The Spirit of Vietnam Shines" offers a unique opportunity to explore prison life and honor the sacrifices of political prisoners. Through artifacts and powerful stories, you'll gain a deeper understanding of Vietnam's struggle for independence and the legacy of its heroes.

Night Tour 2: Living Like a Flower

• Time: 7:00 PM – 8:30 PM Friday and Sunday
• Price: 399,000 VND (~$17) for all ages

This tour honors the courageous female revolutionaries imprisoned at Hoa Lo. It highlights their inner struggles and sacrifices, including stories of bold escapes, like the one in 1945, when France was concentrating forces on the World War II front.

Night Tour 3: The Flame of Youth

• Time: 7:00 PM – 9:00 PM every Saturday
• Price: 499,000 VND (~$21) for all ages

This program celebrates the contributions of young revolutionaries who sacrificed their lives for the country. The message: "Youth is not time, but emotion". On this tour, visitors will step into the lives of political prisoners, experiencing the dark, suffocating cells, escape tunnels, and the resilience of those who fought against all odds.

How to get there?

Hoa Lo Prison is located at 1 Hoa Lo Street, Tran Hung Dao Ward, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, right in the heart of the Old Quarter.

You can easily get to Hoa Lo prison by motorbike taxi, taxi (Grab, Xanh SM), bus (lines 02, 09, 32, 34, and 38, with stops close to the prison), or by walking. From Hoan Kiem Lake, it’s just a 10–15-minute walk. In addition, at Hoa Lo Museum you can conveniently combine sightseeing with famous destinations such as Hoan Kiem Lake and Hanoi Old Quarter.

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Things to Know Before You Visit

Hoa Lo prison ticket Prices & opening Hours

• Opening Hours: 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM, including holidays.
• Hoa Lo prison entrance fees: 50,000 VND ($20) per person.

Discounts:

• Get half off: Seniors (60+), students (with ID), individuals with severe disabilities, and those under social policies.
• Free: Children under 16 and individuals with extremely severe disabilities.

Note: No booking is required online. Tickets can be purchased directly at the entrance. After purchase, your ticket will be checked at the gate, and you'll receive a hand stamp reading "ĐỒNG SONG".

Hoa Lo prison audio guide device

If you visit on your own without a tour guide, Hoa Lo Museum offers an Audio Guide service in up to 8 languages, featuring 35 historical stories throughout the site (including exhibitions and prison areas). Available languages include English, Chinese, Korean, German, Spanish, Japanese, French, and Vietnamese, all for just 50,000 VND ($20), which is a very budget-friendly option!

My advice before visiting Hoa Lo Prison

• Do not bring flammable or explosive objects inside.
• Park your vehicle in the designated area of the relic site when visiting.
• Do not smoke when visiting Hoa Lo Prison.
• Do not touch artifacts, do not make noise or cause disorder when visiting.
•  Keep clean, do not litter.
• Only burn incense and place flowers in the memorial area.

Conclusion

If you only have one day in Hanoi, I recommend you spend at least 1-2 hours visiting Hoa Lo Prison. This is an experience not only about history, and also about emotions and deep understanding of the people and country of Vietnam.

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