Ao Dai: Everything about the traditional Vietnamese attire!

1. The history of Ao Dai, the traditional Vietnamese garment

1.1 Ao Dai in the 18th Century

The Ao Dai is the traditional Vietnamese outfit composed of two pieces: a silk dress and trousers. Before it appeared in its current form, this Vietnamese garment underwent many evolutions since the 18th century.

During this time, in 1774, civil war divided Vietnam into two: the North was governed by the Trinh family, while the South was ruled by the Nguyen family. Women in northern Vietnam wore the Ao giao linh, outfits inspired by Chinese garments. This attire featured a side-slit dress with a crossed collar and long sleeves.

1.2 The "Ao Ngu Than" in Southern Vietnam

In southern Vietnam, Lord Nguyen recognized that the dress was very similar to what the Chinese wore. Wishing to show independence from China and assert his authority, he ordered the southern people to distinguish themselves from northern Vietnamese women by wearing silk trousers under a long, wide tunic with five panels.

This version was called the Ao Ngu Than. It is said that this traditional Vietnamese costume was a fusion between Chinese clothing and that of the ancient Champa kingdom. The Ao Ngu Than was an early version of the modern-day Ao dai.

1.3 The evolution of Ao Dai from the late 19th century to today

At the end of the 19th century, people found that the Vietnamese Ao Dai did not particularly highlight the beauty of Vietnamese women. It was quite loose-fitting, with a rather unflattering cut, which didn’t accentuate feminine curves as much as the modern Ao Dai does today.

In 1884, the Nguyen dynasty was overthrown during French colonization. Western culture began to influence Vietnam, bringing many changes, particularly in the creation of this traditional garment.

In the 1930s, the most significant innovation in the history of the Ao Dai came from the Hanoi artist Cat Tuong. Cat Tuong’s Ao Dai was tightened to better fit the bodies of Vietnamese women. The collar remained, but buttons and sleeves were new features influenced by Western styles.

However, until the mid-20th century, this version was temporarily sidelined as painter Le Pho removed all Western influence from the garment and replaced it with characteristics of the ancient Ao Tu Than, the four-paneled dress worn by women during the feudal period. This version of the Ao Dai was popular at the time because it aligned well with traditional ideologies opposing Western domination.

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In 1958, Tran Le Xuan, also known as Madame Nhu, the sister-in-law of former President Ngô Dinh Diem, made headlines by promoting a modern version of the Ao Dai. She influenced women to wear the Ao Dai with a V-shaped collar, short sleeves instead of long ones, and to accessorize with gloves for a more chic, contemporary style. However, this style wasn’t universally embraced by the population as it didn’t conform to societal customs of the time.

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After this period, the traditional Vietnamese costume continued to evolve through many changes until the early 1980s, when it arrived at the version we know today: a tight-fitting silk dress with side slits, long fitted sleeves, a higher collar, and wide silk trousers.

2. The role of the Ao Dai in Vietnamese society and fashion

The Ao Dai has seen significant evolution throughout the years, both in society and fashion. While no one is exactly sure when the Ao Dai first took root, historical evidence suggests that it dates back to around AD 38-42 during the time of the Trung sisters, two heroines who led a revolution against the Chinese Han Dynasty, marking Vietnam’s initial independent state.

Over the centuries, the Ao Dai has not only been a cultural symbol but also a political statement, especially during the Nguyen Dynasty when King Nguyen Phuc Khoat introduced the silk trousers and long gown to distinguish southern courtiers from the northern Trinh Lords.

During the 19th century, the Ao Ngu Than, which featured five panels and side slits, was widely worn and marked a significant evolution of the Vietnamese Ao Dai. By the 20th century, the design became more fitted, with influences from Western fashion, most notably from Cat Tuong, who revolutionized the dress to enhance the form and femininity of the wearer. However, political events like French colonization and later, the rise of the United States as an occupying force, caused the Ao Dai to shift between traditional and modern interpretations.

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Despite these influences, the Ao Dai continued to evolve into the beautiful, sleek design we know today. Designers like Tran Kim and Dung revolutionized the dress again in the 1950s with raglan sleeves, allowing for more mobility and comfort. This design became the foundation of the modern Ao Dai we see in contemporary fashion.

Today, the Ao Dai remains a signature piece of Vietnamese fashion, embodying cultural pride and grace. Recent innovations have introduced a wider variety of materials, colors, and cuts, making it a versatile garment that can be customized to suit any woman’s style.

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3. Ao Dai, the symbol of Vietnamese beauty

Today, this traditional Vietnamese outfit is one of Vietnam's iconic symbols. It represents grace, beauty, and national pride. The Ao Dai can be plain, adhering to a specific color code for uniforms (white for students, blue for Vietnam Airlines hostesses, etc.), or it can be multi-colored with various motifs, made from different fabrics.

Despite changes in color and form, the Ao Dai remains refined and traditional. This Vietnamese dress allows women who wear it to stay modest, elegant, and beautiful from all angles in any circumstance.

It highlights the charm of Vietnamese women without being vulgar. When asked about their thoughts on the Ao Dai, Vietnamese people say that “the Ao Dai is very sexy, but sexy in a discreet and refined way. This feeling comes from the transparency of the fabric, which subtly reveals parts of the body.”

The Vietnamese Ao Dai was awarded the title of “Best Traditional Costume” at the International Beauty Contest in Tokyo in 1995 and has influenced fashion in major cities like Paris, New York, and Milan. Renowned designers such as Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, and Calvin Klein have all created collections inspired by the Ao Dai. Recently, Ao Dai-style dresses made their appearance in Spain, in Roberto Vanno’s Winter-Spring collection, featuring several original variants and fabrics.

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4. Ao Dai and its companion, the conical hat

When paired with its perfect companion, the Non La (Vietnamese conical hat), the Ao Dai becomes the quintessential traditional outfit. These conical hats are made with a bamboo frame and covered with palm leaves. In everyday life, the conical hat is not only a fashion accessory to complement the Ao Dai, but also an essential item for Vietnamese women.

The traditional Vietnamese Ao Dai, combined with the conical hat, creates a perfect blend that highlights the beauty, elegance, and style of Vietnamese women. It’s no surprise that many foreign travelers are eager to try on and wear a custom-made silk Ao Dai.

5. Ao Dai museum: Vietnam's fashion heritage

If you are passionate about the history of the Ao Dai, this delicate and refined outfit, a visit to the Ao Dai Museum in Ho Chi Minh City is an absolute must. This captivating museum offers a complete immersion into the rich heritage and cultural significance of the Ao Dai, making it a place of learning and discovery for history and fashion enthusiasts.

The talented designer Sy Hoang dedicated a decade to designing and building the Ao Dai Museum in Ho Chi Minh City. His passion for this outfit led him to convert his countryside home in Long Thuân into a museum of ancient wooden architecture, surrounded by typical southern landscapes: rice fields, “monkey bridges,” lotus ponds, and rivers.

The exhibition hall is divided into two parts: on the right side of the entrance, visitors can explore the evolution of the Ao Dai over time. On the other side, they can admire the Ao Dai worn by famous Vietnamese women who made significant contributions in political and social domains during the 20th century, such as General Nguyen Thi Dinh and Vice President Nguyen Thi Binh.

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Conclusion

Through the centuries, the Ao Dai has undergone many transformations and influences, yet it remains an enduring symbol of national beauty and identity.

Discover the elegance and timeless charm of the Ao Dai, the ultimate representation of Vietnamese culture and beauty. If you’re looking to understand what is Ao Dai and appreciate its deep cultural roots, visiting Vietnam and experiencing this symbol firsthand will give you the most authentic insight into its beauty.

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