Black Lolo: Discover One of Vietnam’s Most Distinct Indigenous Groups

Who Are the Black Lolo of Vietnam?

Located at the crossroads of migration in Southeast Asia, Vietnam is home to 54 different ethnic groups, most of whom, including the Black Lolo, inhabit the mountainous north. The Lolo are descendants of the Yi, the 7th largest ethnic group in China. During a major migratory period from the 15th to the 18th century, many groups migrated from southern China, either willingly or by force, to settle in countries further south. The Lolo were among these groups who eventually made their home in Northern Vietnam.

Where do the Lolo people live in Vietnam?

Today, the Lolo community in Vietnam numbers around 4,827 individuals (2,413 males, 2,414 females), representing 0.01% of the country's population, and the Black Lolo account for 59% of the Lolo tribe in Vietnam. They live primarily in the mountainous districts of Hà Giang and Cao Bằng, with a smaller community in the Mường Khương district of Lào Cai province.

The Black Lolo tribe in Vietnam sustain themselves mainly through the cultivation of maize and rice. In recent years, they have also taken up forestry, particularly growing cinnamon and acacia trees. Some villages, like Na Van in Bảo Lạc, Cao Bằng, are notably self-sufficient, with over sixty households living in almost complete isolation from the outside world.

What are the subgroups of the Lolo people?

Officially recognized as the Lolo people within Vietnam’s ethnic mosaic, this population has historically been called by various names, such as O Man, Man Yi, and La La.

The Lolo are divided into two main subgroups, distinguished primarily by the color of their traditional clothing: the Black Lolo and the Flower Lolo (Lô Lô Hoa). When considering the distinction between the Ha Giang vs Cao Bang Lolo, it's important to note that the Black Lolo reside mainly in the districts of Bảo Lạc and Bảo Lâm in Cao Bằng province, while the Flower Lolo live in the districts of Mèo Vạc and Đồng Văn of Hà Giang province. There are also smaller, less defined subgroups, such as the White Lolo and Red Lolo.

Do the Lolo people have their own language and script?

The Black Lolo ethnic have their own language, known as Lolo or Yi, which belongs to the Tibeto-Burman branch of the Sino-Tibetan language family. According to Ethnologue, this language group includes 29 closely related languages in China.

They also once possessed a unique pictographic script, which consisted of 140 radicals used to form meaning by combining different symbols. This script was historically inscribed on thin wooden plates, animal skins, or thick, coarse paper. While a few Lolo families still preserve these ancient texts today, very few people can read them. Sadly, most young people no longer have the knowledge to read this script.

Livelihood of the Black Lolo People

The Black Lo Lo people traditionally rely on farming, livestock, and handicrafts such as forging knives and weaving. However, with the challenges of modern life, including climate change and new diseases affecting their animals, these livelihoods are no longer enough to provide a stable income.

Fortunately, the region's tourism potential has been recognized. Local initiatives are now promoting experiential tourism that not only attracts visitors but also helps preserve the community's authentic culture and natural environment, while avoiding over-commercialization.

Kampá Tour is a key player in this movement. We specialize in providing unique, personalized tours that connect you directly with the Tay, Hmong, Thai and Black Lo Lo communities. This is an experience you won’t find anywhere else.

The Village and Home of the Black Lolo in Vietnam

The Black Lolo belong to several clans whose members live together in hamlets. Their villages, which are often larger than those of other ethnic groups, are located on mountainsides, close to water sources, and often in remote areas. Each Black Lolo village is typically made up of 20 to 25 households.

The Black Lolo build three main types of houses: on the ground, on stilts, and a combination of both. In Bảo Lạc, they primarily live in stilt houses constructed from wood and bamboo. These houses generally follow a similar design. The area beneath the stilts is reserved for animals and tools, while the main living space upstairs consists of three rooms with no partitions. The central space holds the ancestral altar, the kitchen is near the front door, and the bedrooms are arranged at the back.

The Traditional Clothing of the Black Lolo

When it comes to clothing, the Black Lolo are renowned for their intricate attire, especially among women. While men's clothing is quite uniform, consisting of a long indigo-black tunic slit at the sides and dark blue trousers, women's attire is distinctly different between the Black Lolo and the Flower Lolo.

Flower Lolo women wear indigo pants and a jacket decorated with brightly colored triangles and squares. In contrast, Black Lolo women wear an indigo-black skirt and tunic adorned with embroidered details on the sleeves in a vibrant rainbow of colors. This tunic, which is worn like a sweater, is often accessorized with silver or aluminum necklaces.

While Flower Lolo women wear a beautiful hat with multicolored bangs, Black Lolo women decorate their hair with a simpler black-and-white turban-style headdress. The combination of these simple colors gives Black Lolo women an irresistible charm.

Black Lolo Culture and Beliefs

Black Lolo society is monogamous and patriarchal, with the wife living with her husband's family after marriage. The tradition of dowry still exists and is sometimes so costly that marriage can feel like a commercial affair.

The role of the clan leader is essential. He not only oversees ancestor worship but also ensures the solidarity of families within the lineage. The Black Lolo practice a form of animism, believing in various spirits and genies. According to their calendar, each year consists of only 11 months, with each month corresponding to an animal.

When a death occurs, the head of the lineage organizes a liturgical event to guide the deceased's soul to the afterlife and reunite it with its ancestors. This solemn ceremony requires the sacrifice of several animals and the use of a sacred object as a bridge to the spiritual world: the bronze drum.

The bronze drum in Black Lolo's belief

The bronze drum holds a central spiritual role in the culture of the Black Lolo people. Believed to be a tool for communicating with ancestors, these sacred drums are typically buried and only unearthed for major ceremonies.

A foundational myth that is still told today highlights their significance. During a great flood, a boy and a girl survived by hiding inside a pair of drums given by God. This legend explains why the Lolo always use a pair of drums: one large "female" drum and one small "male" drum, symbolizing their yin and yang cosmological view.

In funeral rites, the drums are placed near the deceased’s feet, facing each other. A musician, who must be single or have a wife who is not pregnant, plays them to guide the soul to the ancestral world. Ultimately, the sound of the bronze drum serves as a vital spiritual guide and is considered the most distinctive cultural feature of the Black Lolo in Vietnam.

Festivals and Music of the Black Lolo

• Rich Musical Heritage: The Black Lolo have a vibrant tradition of folk music and dance. They perform folk songs for various occasions (love duets, New Year, weddings, even funerals) and use local instruments, including drums.
• Rain Invocation Festival (Mề Pỉ): This is their most notable event, held in the spring to pray for rain and a good harvest. The festival features a shaman, music, dance, and offerings.
• Shared Celebrations: The Lolo also participate in other traditional Vietnamese holidays, like Tết Nguyên Đán.

Key Lolo Holidays:

• New Rice Festival (Tenth day of the first lunar month): A time for the community to gather, celebrate, and wish for a peaceful year.
• Tết Đoan Ngọ (Mid-Year Festival): Observed by eating rice balls and cakes to ward off evil spirits.
• Seventh Lunar Month Festival: A significant occasion for families and friends to honor ancestors with traditional foods.

Where to See Black Lolo Village Life?

Visiting the Black Lolo village in Khuoi Khon is like entering a living cultural museum, where you are welcomed as a close friend.

Khuoi Khon, in Bao Lac district (Cao Bang), is the ideal place to meet the Black Lolo community. The village is quite remote, and getting there is a journey in itself. From Hanoi, it's a long day's drive or an overnight bus to Cao Bang city, followed by another 3 hours to Bao Lac town. The final 10km to the village is a narrow mountain road best navigated by an experienced local guide or driver. This isolation has helped the village preserve its pristine beauty for many years, attracting adventurous tourists seeking a deep and authentic community tourism experience.

What to Do in Khuoi Khon Village?

• Experience Homestay with a Lolo family: The highlight of the trip is the opportunity to live with a local family. You will gather around the fire, sip corn wine and listen to life stories. The warm hospitality of Ms. Phuong, whose eyes sparkle like mountain streams, told us about the challenging life but also rich in tradition and neighborly love of the people here. 

• Immerse yourself in daily life: Join the locals in activities such as helping to light the fire, fetching water or working on the fields (depending on the season). This "doing, not just watching" experience will bring the most memorable and authentic memories.

• Trekking to explore the mountain landscape: Khuoi Khon is located in the middle of majestic mountain scenery, with beautiful terraced fields. You can join short or long trekking routes, walk through neighboring villages to admire the wild beauty and explore the rustic life of the local people.

• Explore Bao Lac Market: If you come at the right time of the market, you will witness a colorful cultural picture. This is where many ethnic minorities gather, exchange goods and exchange cultures in a bustling atmosphere.

• Enjoy Folk Culture: In the evening, you can be entertained by traditional art performances, with music and folk dances typical of the Lolo people, creating a magical and unforgettable space.

Travel Tips for Visiting the Black Lolo Village

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit is from March to May, when the weather is mild and the terraced fields are a beautiful lush green or filled with water, creating stunning reflections. September is also great for seeing the golden rice terraces during harvest season. It's best to avoid the rainy months of June and July, which can make the mountain roads difficult to travel.

Accommodation & Etiquette

Expect basic but authentic homestay lodging. You'll likely sleep on a mat on a wooden floor and use a shared squat toilet with no hot water. Bringing warm clothes for the cool mountain nights and insect repellent is a good idea.

When visiting, remember you are a guest in someone's home. It's a nice gesture to bring a small gift like fruit or snacks for your hosts. However, please do not give money or candy to children, as this can create a culture of begging. Instead, if you want to support the community, consider buying a hand-woven textile or other local craft. Always ask for permission before taking photos.

The Language Barrier

The Black Lolo speak their own language, and most elders know little to no Vietnamese or English. A local guide is highly recommended to help facilitate conversations and ensure you truly connect with the community. Don't worry, a smile and hand gestures go a long way, but a guide will unlock deeper conversations about their rich culture. Kampá Tour's experienced guides specialize in bridging this gap, allowing you to have a truly meaningful exchange.

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